If you want to know how to build a miter saw table read through my tips and techniques on this page. A miter saw table (or a miter saw bench) is a workbench you build that fits your miter saw perfectly, allowing for optimum board support and customization, like auxiliary fences, board stops, integral clamping, and anything else you can think of. But all that’s just optional, and having the basic miter saw workbench alone is a huge advantage over the miter saw just sitting on top of a flat workbench.
It’s made so you can easily lay a piece of wood on the work top, and while it lays flat on the bench top, it also is flat along the work surface of the miter saw. This makes for easier miter cuts and has the additional benefit of being able to create miter saw jigs, plus it provides additional workspace for assembly. This is always a good thing.
How To Build A Miter Saw Table – The Sections
You can build a miter saw table in 3 basic sections, the left side, right side, and the recessed middle section. The sides are there to support long pieces of wood. You can make both sides the same length if you want, but a lot of people tend to always have the long cut off side to the left or right. In this case, you can just make one side of the miter saw table longer than the other, to support the longer cutoff piece.
Each side is a basic framed workbench, which can be built with dimensional lumber bought from any home improvement store, including most big box stores. Build them nice and square, and with enough support so they don’t wobble or shift. You’ll want to build both of the side benches to the exact same height.
If you need additional storage space in your shop, you can add some plywood shelving down on the lower leg braces. Just cut it to size and screw it down. It doesn’t have to extend in between the legs at the ends, just the front, and back. This makes it a much easier process.
The middle section of the miter saw table is recessed down lower than the 2 sides. This is where the miter saw will be stationed. Measure the height of the miter saw cutting surface from the bottom of the saw’s feet. This is how much the middle top should be recessed down lower than the top of the 2 sides. This ensures you end up with a level surface across both sides, and the miter saw cutting surface, once everything is complete.
I made mine symmetrical, knowing that it’s height matches the adjacent work bench. That bench will be used for extended board support when needed. I also built mine with 2 cabinet bases, so I could fill it up with drawers. This method is more advanced, and a topic for another post.
However, you can still see how I added the auxiliary fence. Also, I built a custom box around the miter saw, which I hook my vacuum hose to. This creates really good dust control. Larger dust chips still land around the saw, but the airborne dust is pretty much eliminated with this method. This dust collection too is a topic for another post.
How To Build A Miter Saw Table For Cheap But Still Looks Nice
Here’s where you finish the work table with some nice malamine board. This is a hard, slick surface material that you can lay on top of the finished benches. They can be held in place simply by edge banding some 3/4″ pine. This pine will be nailed to the top of the frame, but the malamine will be floating within this edge banding.
This way you don’t have to screw thru the malamine, and you end up with a perfect and flat surface to work from. Just make sure you measure the thickness of the malamine, and account for this thickness in the overall height of the miter saw table side pieces, so you can make sure this elevation (including the malamine) matches the middle section plus the elevation of the miter saw cutting surface.
That’s About It
With this set up you can really get some good use out of your miter saw table. Under the table is great for storage, so find ways to install shelves or drawers for keeping material off the floor and well-organized.
Mount a vertical board down to the table top in line with the saw fence. This can be an extended auxiliary fence that you can clamp stop-blocks on for added versatility and better repeatability in your cuts.
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